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Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA
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Climbing Routes in North CarolinaLinville Gorge provides many areas to climb along it's 12 mile length. The most popular is Table Rock. It's a primary point of access and holds a good number of classic climbs. Also mentioned here is The Amphitheater section of Linville Gorge, home to three popular and classic lines.
Linville Gorge, North Carolina climbing area page Linville Gorge > Table Rock Table Rock rises about 400 ft. at the northern end, offering many beginner and moderate multi-pitch routes on the south, east, and north sides, as well as many more challenging lines. A strenuous trail encircles the base of the rock. From the big information sign near the parking lot, hike up the Table Rock Summit trail until you come to the first big fork in the trail. The trail going right leads around to the South End, the East Face, and the North End. Continue on the left side until the next big fork at the saddle between Table Rock and Little Table Rock. If you continue left, you will go out onto Little Table Rock. Follow the main trail right and you will get to the summit of Table Rock. On the way to the summit, about half way up, an elusive trail will break off to the left. It leads to The Devil's Cellar. Linville Gorge > Table Rock > South End The South End of Table Rock is viewed from the parking lot. It is a dramatic face with large granite faces, cracks, and roof. Routes here are usually two pitches. To descend, either scramble up to find the Summit trail on top of Table Rock , or scramble down the gully. How to find the South End Look for the elusive South End trail on the left once the main trail completes the bend and you start heading along the East Face. There is a tree nearby, the trail goes up and is steep. You will emerge near Crackerjack 5.8. There is a gully near here the leads to the top of the rock, but it is very rough. Linville Gorge > Table Rock > South End > Crackerjack 5.8 (2 pitches)
First pitch - First pitch starts near end of trail. Climb up to the roof, go right, then on to an obvious belay station at the base of the crack. Second Pitch - Climb the big crack! Comments - This is a must do climb for the 5.8 leader looking for a challenging off-width. The big crack protects well, (medium - large cams), hexes, nuts, and the crack cleaves an overhung face. You end up with a lot of air under your feet! Linville Gorge > Table Rock > East Face The East Face holds some of the most popular routes on Table Rock. If you just wandered down the trail looking for a climb, you would most likely find Jim Dandy 5.4. You encounter it early along the east Face, so it makes a good reference point. In the vertical realm, climbs from the ground either return there via rappel, or converge at The Lunch Ledge at the Northeast corner of the mountain. The lunch ledge is about half way up the face. Several climbs leave from the Lunch Ledge, and it has a gully that lets you scramble down without rappelling. You can also rappel of the south end. Getting to the East Face Continue on the trail past the South End. Within a minute or two you'll start passing some rock. The most popular climbing starts about midway on the east face. Linville Gorge > Table Rock > East Face > Jim Dandy 5.4 (3 pitches) Since it's one of the most popular climbs on Table Rock, finding the start of Jim Dandy isn't too hard. If you stay along the cliffs, the trail will lead you right to it. A side trail branches left off the main trail up, through some rhododendrons, to emerge at a platform beneath the climb. Scramble up on the platform, belay from here. There will be two bolts visible on the rock above. Pitch 1 - From the flat spot, you will see the first two bolts of Jim Dandy 5.5, the most popular climb on the rock. The route follows a straight line to the big pine tree atop the first ledge (80 ft). There is another bolt, then most climbers feel better slipping in a small cam or two for the run to the ledge. There is a good anchor on the rock wall near the pine tree. Pitch 2 - The second pitch climbs up and right. You will see the first two or three bolts from the anchors. This line of six bolts traverses diagonally up and right around a wonderfully exposed area for about 100 feet to reach s small ledge (3 person) with another good anchor. The second pitch can be done without using any other protection, though some like to put in an extra piece on the sketchy sections. You can reach the ground in one rappel from this ledge. Pitch 3 - The third pitch goes up from the belay, then makes a line for the Tree Ledge, above and to the right. Belay form the anchors at the end of the tree ledge. Long pitch 150 feet, but easy ground. There are a couple of bolts, then medium sized cams will do the trick as you run it out to the trees. Comments - This is a good beginning leader or first time follower climb. The first pitch has it's thrill as the top seems a bit run out. The second pitch good because it is so exposed, the bolts give a beginning leader confidence. The third pitch is good because it is long on easy ground. Linville Gorge > Table Rock > East Face >- Peek-a-boo 5.5 (2 pitches) Comments - The first pitch starts slabby, but then gets more featured, blocky, and ends in a hanging belay over a dark chasm. May be a bit nervy for first timers. The Peek-a-boo move is very committing, enough to discourage new climbers. The traverse that follows is also thrilling. Linville Gorge - Table Rock - East Face - Peek-a-boo Direct 5.10A (2nd pitch variation) Often wet, Peek-a-boo Direct starts from the hanging belay atop pitch one. Climb above you on sketchy little face moves under the roof until you round the corner. It then gets easier once out from under. Protection is good, nuts, cams. Comments: If you're like me, curiosity will get the best of you, and you'll want to know what's on the other side of the roof. Linville Gorge > Table Rock > East Face > The Cave Route 5.4 (2 pitches)
Pitch 1 - The left face has 4 bolts in it that lead to a ledge with anchors (60 feet). The cave is located in the corner, and is usually wet. Pitch 2 - The second pitch climbs up from the anchors then around and up on easy ground. A couple bolts will be found, additional gear should be placed to reduce rope drag. Aim for the middle of the lunch ledge. Belay from the tree at the lunch ledge. Scramble up the trail to gain the top of the ledge. Rappel down off the south end, or scramble down off the north end of the Lunch Ledge Comments: This has been many a leaders first route. It is a good climb for new climbers. Exposure is better on the second pitch. Linville Gorge > The Amphitheater How to get to the Amphitheater - This area is within the Wilderness boundaries - From the Table Rock parking area, follow the Shortoff Mountain Trail (Mountains-to-Sea-Trail) from through the camping area south toward Shortoff Mountain. There are a few secluded campsites along the trail (please don't use them - too much exotic plant life has been destroyed here). You pass by Polaroid Point, a flat rocky outcropping on your right, with panoramic views of the Gorge (great for sunsets). You will soon come to a narrow slot through a large rock, then pass by some large outcroppings on your left, The Chimneys. Pass through the damp tunnel of aromatic rhododendrons. Access to the North Carolina Wall is via an elusive trail(s) on the right. Watch for a trail to one right when you've hiked for about 1/2 hour on the Shortoff Mountain trail. There is white quartz rock in the ground on the right side of the trail which marks the right turn onto the Amphitheater Trail. The pine tree on the left that usually had a white rock wedged in a crook is dead and has fallen. If you haven't made a right turn and the Shortoff Mountain Trail starts descending steadily into the gap, you've gone too far. Once you turn right towards Linville Gorge and the Amphitheater, the trail will start a winding descent. After 10+ minutes you'll reach the top of the north wall of the Amphitheater. It is worth the effort to continue out onto the end of the north wall (open Book Buttress) to survey the area below and identify climbs and landmarks. Be sure to look down from the end. Look for the descent gully on your left before you emerge onto the north wall It located at the point where the trail leaves the woods. It's a steep chute through a tangle of loose rhododendron, usually a little wet at the bottom, which will deposit you on the top of the sloping floor of the Amphitheater. Returning via this chute may not be feasible, depending on conditions, though erosion has made it a bit easier lately.
How to get to the North Wall - Leaving Table Rock parking lot, follow Shortoff Mountain Trail for about 1/2 hour. Trail to amphitheater on right. Look for the rock at the turn. The trail to the Amphitheater emerges from the woods onto the top of North Wall. You will get an excellent view of the Amphitheater if you walk out to the end of the point. The most popular climb on this side of the Amphitheater is The Prow 5.4. It climbs 3-5 pitches up the long exposed face emerging a little lower and to the right of you as you face the gorge. On the South side of the gorge, the Mummy Buttress stands at the end of the wall. It holds the two most popular climbs in the Amphitheater, The Mummy 5.5 and The Daddy 5.6. Linville Gorge > Amphitheater > North Wall > The Prow 5.4 (3 -5 pitches)
To find the start of this climb, from the top of the North Wall, go down the descent gully. The first level ground you hit will be rocky and wet. There is sometimes a small waterfall and stream here after a good rain, though it is most often a dry, rocky, fern-filled stream bed. Cross the rocky stream bed, then turn immediately right to follow it down on steep and rocky trails. Don't be fooled into continuing on the good path high along the South Wall once you cross the stream bed if you want to do these routes. Follow the path of the water down instead. Bushwhacking and scrambling along the most worn paths will lead you down the floor of the Amphitheater, crossing from north to south (right to left). Watch for a point where the trail strays away from what little remains of the stream bed, towards the south wall (left). You will descend around a short rocky face with a shallow cave. This is the best place to decide to go to the north or south walls. If you want to climb The Prow, break trail (right) for the base of the North Wall from here. The easiest path will bring you in at a point on the climb between two and three pitches from the top. To do more pitches, aim for lower on the wall. I've done as many as six pitches on this climb, but it gets really dirty and loose the lower you go, only the top is recommended. Pitches 1 -4 These routes will vary greatly depending on where how low you start. If you reach the vertical section of the rock, you have only the last two pitches to go. Anything below here is your choice. While you could argue there is one pure 5.4 line up the broad apron of The Prow, the rock is so consistent you can wander at will. I've climbed simultaneously with two other parties and we all had good protection and consistent grade to the vertical area. Pitch 5 - Pitch 5 starts underneath the big overhang near the top of the wall. Climb the side of the overhang up and around to the left. Continue on some blocky face climbing to a nice ledge. Pitch 6 - This is the escape pitch. Traverse along the ledge to the left 70 feet. At the end go up a few awkward feet to reach the top of the climb. There is a large tree here. Scramble over rocks and follow any paths upward until you work your way back and right to the top of the North Wall.. Comments - This climb is just plain easy fun. You can bring anyone who can handle the exposure - and the views are great. The lower pitches are slabby, so they are not too intimidating. The top two pitches have some nice exposed climbing, particularly pitch 5. This is a good climb for the new leader to practice gear placement and route finding. It has been known to be done by moonlight (sans headlamps). large photo - Jason Hale leads high on the last pitch of the Prow 5.4 large photo - Jackie tops out on The Daddy 5.6. The long rock face behind her is The Prow 5.4 Linville Gorge > Amphitheater > Mummy Buttress The Mummy Buttress forms the south terminus of the Amphitheater. This enormous pillar is attached to the main wall by a narrow point. There is a descent gully at this point to reenter the gorge making it easy to do two climbs. The descent gully is not a good exit from the gorge. The Mummy Buttress has one of the longest uninterrupted faces in Linville Gorge and holds two of the most popular and fun routes. The Mummy 5.5 and The Daddy 5.6 are two truly classic climbs with excellent views, wonderful rock, and fantastic exposure to the gorge. How to get to the Mummy Buttress Hike the Mountains to Sea trail south from the parking lot at Table Rock. Pass the Chimneys, and continue past the trails just beyond leading into the North Carolina Wall. About 10 minutes more of hiking will bring you to a trail on the right which leads down to the Amphitheater. There is a white quartz rock in the ground near the right turn onto this trail. If it is your first visit, it's a good idea to follow the trail descending to the Amphitheater out onto the the top of the Open Book Buttress. This provides a view across the canyon looking towards the Mummy Buttress at the end of the south wall. There is a deep gully behind the formation separating it from the rest of the canyon wall. Look for the long ledge the serves as the second belay ledge for the Mummy. The crack below it from the right end identifies the route. The Daddy is just around the corner with few features visible unless you know the climb well. There are two ways to approach the Buttress. To approach it from the bottom, locate the descent gully near the point where the trail emerges onto the Open Book Buttress. It is a short way beyond a big rock on your left. Scramble down to the floor of the amphitheater, cross the small wet area ( sometimes flowing, rarely dry). Gradually work your way down toward the south wall. The start of the Mummy is located just beyond where the gully behind the buttress turns the corner. To get to the Mummy Buttress from the top, return up the trail from out on the Open Book Buttress. Pass the decent gully. Just beyond is a big flat rock. Cross this rock and follow the trail which leads along the top of the canyon around to the top of the Mummy Buttress. How to get back from the Mummy Buttress
Large view route topo / photo The most difficult part of climbing The Mummy 5.5 is finding the start of the route. To find The Mummy, scramble down the floor of the amphitheater always following "trails" toward the south wall. Identify the Mummy Buttress on your left as you are descending. Look for the gully behind the buttress. Just around the corner, look for the crack that runs almost all the way up to the long ledge at the second belay. You wont be able to see the ledge from the ground as the route bulges slightly. The crack does not go all the way to the ground. The rock at the base of the climb is dark in color from being wet. It is easy to go too far and end up at The Daddy. This is one of the most sought after routes in Linville Gorge. There are endless variations. The classic route sets a hanging belay about 100 feet up the crack at a diamond shaped fissure. Pitches one and two can be done together in one long push with a 60 meter rope bringing you to the right end of the long narrow ledge. Build an anchor under the rocks at this end. The last pitch detours just right of the roofs and follows easy ground to the top. The Mummy roof variation 5.7 (3rd pitch variation) From the long, narrow ledge at the end of the second pitch climb up and into the corner beneath the big roofs. Using big cams (#3 or #4) or big hexes (#9,# 10) set an anchor in the corner. Reach out from under the roof to find the good handholds. Turn your feet loose, swing out over 200+ feet of air and pull the roof. Pass the "balancing" sarcophagus rock, continue up through easier ground to the top. Comments: This move puts a nice twist in an already good climb. It's intimidating the first time, but the holds are good and it's just plain fun. You can't sit on the big ledge without wondering about that nice roof - go ahead and do it! How to get back from the Mummy Buttress The return path from routes topping the Mummy Buttress runs along the top edge of the South Wall of the Amphitheater, with areas of sheer drops, thick brush, and confusing trails. Use caution. Find the trail on top of the Mummy Buttress, follow it to where the buttress attaches to the main wall. Cross here, follow the trail up and to the right, passing a line of 40 foot cliffs (Reggea Wall). Climb up the steep trail at the end of the cliffs, turn left, back towards the Amphitheater. Follow the trail, always taking the higher trail whenever it meets another. You will circle around the top of the canyon, and find the Amphitheater trail just beyond a large flat rock. Good luck!
If you think you've found The Mummy, continue down from here a short distance to gain access to the base of The Daddy. The base of the Daddy is obvious because all the traffic has trampled down a recognizable platform here. There is a large hemlock tree near the start. Pitch 1 - The first pitch ascends a right corner to a small platform, then continues up to a second platform. Pitch 2 - The next pitch follows up a big crack, then finds the way to a ledge with a few trees You will see the long ledge of the third pitch above you. Pitch 3 - The third pitch is mostly a traverse first right to ascend to the ledge, then 100 feet to left to the end of the ledge. Belay from the large boulders there. Little height is gained on this pitch. Pitch 4 - The fourth pitch leaves the ledge, then angles up and right across the face to a crack. It ends up in a nook behind a big boulder with a small tree. Pitch 5 - The fifth and last pitch follows a right corner out of the nook to a small platform, then another and goes vertical for the last 15 feet to the ledge at the top. There are numerous ways to do this climb as it goes through some relatively easy ground. With a 60 meter rope it is possible to combine pitches 2-3 by climbing the 5.8 variation through the steeper section below the long ledge, and also combining pitches 4-5 if one pays careful attention to rope drag. How to get back from the Mummy Buttress Looking Glass Rock has some of the best big climbing in the Southeast. The rock is shaped like a 3 mile long teardrop. The biggest faces (500 ft+) are found on the North Face and hold some of the best aid routes anywhere. The most popular area at the rock is the South Face, as it offers climbs which can be top roped as well as good multi-pitch lines. The most well known area is The Nose, home to the first ascent of the rock via The Nose 5.8. The four pitch climb remains a classic. Looking Glass Rock Climbing Area Page ![[ Yahoo! Maps ]](http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/us/mp/gr/mplogo.gif){kind=small} Shows FR 475B Enlarge Looking Glass Rock photo Looking Glass Rock > The Nose Area The Nose Area is the most popular of Looking Glass Rock's climbing areas. It holds the classic four pitch climb The Nose 5.8 as well as Sundial 5.8. Between them lies the tricky but true line of Peregrine 5.9. Most climbers come here to climb The Nose, and settle on one of the other climbs instead of waiting. Get here early if you want to have the best chance of being first.
Best beta for the Nose - Get here as early as you can, then let the party ahead of you show you the way. You'll want 60 meter ropes as the last pitch to the trees is long. You emerge from the trail in the general area of Sundial Crack 5.8. The start of The Nose is to the left - follow the path of erosion down through a few boulders to a level area. Look for the first belay ledge 100 ft. overhead. Pitch 1 (5.6 100+ ft.) - The first ledge is visible directly above the start of the first pitch. Climb up to the first ledge more or less in a direct line. This pitch introduces you to climbing on eyebrows. It protects with small to medium cams, hexes, tricams. It's a nice warm up for that which follows. Nice Fixe ring anchors here at the ledge with room for three. Pitch 2 (5.8 100+ ft.) From the anchors at the first ledge, the path most often chosen goes right towards a large flake, then up into the diagonal ramp to it's end. You can also go left from the anchors to start at the beginning of the ramp, but beware of rope drag if you set an anchor in the corner. From the end of the ramp, go straight up to reach the second ledge, big enough for three climbers, with fixe ring anchors. This pitch protects with small cams, tricams (pink), nuts. There is a fixed pin entering the ramp from the right. Pitch 3 (5.8 100- ft.) Climb straight up to the parking lot ledge. The first set of bolts you come to near the lip of the huge ledge are rappel anchors. There are fixe ring anchors on the right wall near the back of the ledge. There is also a large fissure at the back wall of the ledge that will take larger cams and hexes to construct your own anchor. This pitch protects with small cams, tricams, nuts. Pitch 4 (5.7 180 ft.) Climb straight up and a little to the right to the reach first tree. There is often a trickle of water right down the middle of the steepest part of this pitch (down low). Don't be too afraid of the wet spots. The rock here sees enough traffic to keep it clean of moss, your shoes will stick to the wet rock just fine. This pitch protects with small cams, nuts, tricams. Most folks run out the top once it rounds off, a medium cam will find a placement up here. Fixe ring anchors are in the large flat rock in front of the trees. The two ring anchors at the top of the climb are the first anchors for the rappel route. On a good day you can continue straight down from here to the ground in three raps. Most often though, it's better to divert to other anchors to avoid parties ascending. Looking Glass Rock > North Face The North face of Looking Glass Rock contains some of the finest aid routes anywhere. The 500 foot+ faces rise up vertically, then mushroom out with enormous overhangs. There are a few good traditional routes here, but this is really the land of the hard men and multi-day assaults. Looking Glass Rock
> North Face > Glass Menagerie
V 5.11 A3 Submitted by: Alpine So you want to climb big walls, but you live in the Southeast or
even worse – Florida? Fear not my stone-pulling friends,
for in our very own backyard two prime walls beckon like sirens
of the deep. Both Looking Glass
and Whitesides
offer superb endeavors for the budding big-wall enthusiast, with
the latter being a bit more difficult and committing. Almost
everyone is familiar with the characteristic “undercling-highstep”
forced by Looking Glass’s famous eyebrows, but just around
the corner from this decidedly slabby climbing lurks a wall with
a much different demeanor. The north face of The Glass provides
for climbing of a more... well… steep nature.
Routes such as Rowin’s Route, Chieftains of Creep and Glass
Menagerie all spend at least the first half of their igneous lives
on the overhanging portion of the face. More often than not,
the climbing on this overhung rock involves extensive aid, but a
route like Glass Menagerie, with its moderate clean aid, is a great
introduction to the techniques of big-wall life. After hauling the pig up to the anchors and preparing for the next lead (C2), one is faced with a perplexing question… How in the world do I reach that bolt up there? The answer is actually much more obvious than it first seems – simply top-step in your etriers off of that hook placement out to your left and clip that spinner! The Black Diamond Sky Hook seats beautifully on the little ledge up and left from the belay, providing at least some confidence as you attempt this incredibly reachy move. Even in your top steps the bolt is a real pain in the ass to clip, made even more difficult once you realize the hanger is a spinner. Once this is accomplished the transition into the dihedral goes smoothly. The dihedral takes small nuts and has the occasional fixed pin or bolt. The fourth(C1) pitch(fifth in the Climbers Guide) used to be the crux of the aid portion, but has since been retro-bolted for the free ascent by Pascal Roberts, rendering it nothing more than a bolt ladder. Off of the belay, sink a bomber #1 Camelot and then continue out
under the big roof clipping shiny new bolts as well as rusty old
ones. When the bolts run out, a couple small TCU’s will
get you out left to the start of the crack system. At this
point, your day is over and you have two options: set up that
portaledge that you lugged up with you, or tie two ropes end to
end and rap back down to the ground. If you plan on bivying
in a portaledge it would be a wise idea to spend the night at the
beginning of this pitch where good shelter is provided by the roof,
as opposed to setting your ledge up in the runoff path that is the
top of the roof pitch. If you rap to the ground, make sure
you’re comfortable passing knots on rappel at night and that
you securely fix the end of the rope to a stout tree or rock once
you’re down. (Enlarge photo) After ascending your fixed ropes (or breaking down your ledge) cuss and spit your way up the mossy off-width (5.10) until you reach the obvious leftward traverse (I won’t tell if you pull on gear). For the traverse (C1), a couple of easy moves on TCU’s are all that’s required, and then you’re back at more off-width Set up the belay at the end of the traverse! (#2 Camalot's fit perfectly) It makes for a short pitch, but it also makes for a much more comfortable experience. 
(Enlarge photo) For the next pitch (5.10), combine the last half of pitch five with pitch six (six and seven in the Climbers Guide). By doing this you skip the cramped belay in the middle of the off-width and go directly to a large sloping ledge. My only advice for this pitch is don’t give up. Just slide a cam up as you go and you’ll do just fine. You smell that? Smells like summit fever (or
bird shit) to me. For this last pitch(5.9) all you’ll
need is three #1 Camalot's, I swear! (and a sixty meter rope!!)
Get one Camelot in right off the belay (bomber), push the second
up with you as you climb this INCREDIBLE hand crack (moves up perfectly),
leave the second one in the middle of the crack section, now start
pushing the third one up as you climb and leave this one behind
when the crack starts to disappear and the rock begins to slab out.
It’s a bit of a runout from here up to the tree line, but the
climbing is easy(5.7) so relax and enjoy the view. Overall difficulty rating: Submitted by: Alpine Looking Glass Rock > Aid Climbing Sampler Provided by Alpine Many climbers who actively participate in the pursuit of the tops of rocks share a common desire - to eventually climb a big wall. Wall climbing is very similar to Shakespearean literature: it was the best of times/it was the worst of times, the climbing was great/the hauling sucked, the food was delicious/I HATE cold Chef Boyardee, all of this gear is really cool/this damn gear keeps getting in the way, and so on and so forth? Almost all budding wall enthusiasts who share the desire to climb on the big stone, however, have heard the gripes and complaints of wall veterans who sometimes make it seem as if big walling is nothing more than the ability to deal with pain for extended periods of time. So why the desire to subject one's self to such torture? Hands down, wall climbing is the most comprehensive form of climbing and takes one to some of the most beautiful places on earth. This is the attractor. Every skill, trick and technique one has learned through their climbing journeys will be utilized on a wall. Trad, sport, aid and even bouldering will all come into play. But as with everything, there are some basics that need to be addressed before venturing on to the big stone. If it had to be said that one skill was more useful than any other on a wall, that skill would be aid climbing. In general, one can bail themselves out of almost any situation with a good knowledge of and proficiency in aiding. Whether its quickly getting past a hard section of free climbing or stringing together multiple body weight placements, a firm grasp on the skills needed for the situation at hand is crucial. How does one acquire these skills? By going out and doing it of course, and there's no better place here in the Southeast than Looking Glass. Once one has a handle on the basics of aiding methodology(movement within the daisy/etrier/gear system-easily practiced in a gym or on a simple crack at your local crag), its time for the real deal. Looking Glass Rock in North Carolina has quite a few moderate aid routes, single and multi-pitch, well suited to ironing out any kinks in one's aid system. The north side of The Glass is the premiere aid destination, but the Sun Wall has a couple of aid gems too:
Looking Glass Rock > Sun Wall The Sun Wall holds some very steep routes and therefore sees little climbing activity from the average visitor. It is positioned between the Nose area and the South Wall. It can be accessed from wither the Slick Rock Falls trailhead by hiking towards the Nose area along the base of the cliffs, or via the Sun Wall Trail (shortest route). Most of the traffic on the Sun Wall trail is going to the Nose area. The nondescript fork in the trail will be found as it starts to climb more steeply towards the rock. It forks to the right.
Psychedelic Delusions of the Digital Man 5.9 C2 is a beautiful line and a great place to put aid skills to the test on ones first "real" aid route. Characterized by a right facing dihedral, this thin crack will swallow anything from small offset nuts(both bomber ones and not so bomber ones), to TCU's, cam hooks and even a #2 Camalot. The route also sports 4 or 5 bolts, a bit of mind rest for the uninitiated. The crux of this route is not the gear placements themselves, but getting the gear placed. The right leaning nature of the corner provides for a few tricky sections where ones feet will constantly skate out from underneath them when reaching for a placement. Patience sees most people through and DON'T FORGET THE CAM HOOKS - they definitely speed things up. Leave the pitons at home! Rack: 2 ea. cams to 1" + #2 Camalot, 2-3 sets stoppers(offsets very useful), cam hooks.
Though this route totes a clean rating, it may be wise to bring a few small to medium angles and 1 or 2 knife blades in case any of the fixed pins have become unfixed. The first pitch is incredibly short, yet not one to be taken for granted, for it is often wet and/or extremely slick. Climb straight up for about 10 feet, then traverse right along a sloping ledge system and then up again over a bulge to a belay in a horizontal crack. From the belay, move straight up a small flake on fixed pins to 2 hook moves. The hook moves lead into the start of the long left traversing crack and eventually to a bolt and more fixed angles (note: for a shorter climb, rap back to the ground from here). Continue past the bolt until in a dark water streak, climb through
the short steep section and belay. Back cleaning on this pitch will
reduce the amount of gear needed, but make sure the follower does
not To keep the follower from becoming aggravated on this pitch, try to back clean between fixed pieces of gear. This way, no gear is lost and the second can easily lower off from slings on the fixed pieces. This pitch will provide plenty of practice for cleaning traverses. For the next pitch, continue on aid past a string of bolts to a bolted anchor. Pitch 4 climbs the right facing dihedral at 5.7. Pitch 5 is friction and brows to the top. Rack: 2-3 ea. cams .4-3", 2 sets nuts(offsets useful), a few small-med angles and 2 KB's, hooks. Ready for some climbing more beautiful than Psych Delusions and steeper than Super Conduction? Just around the corner, at the north side, lies the answer to this very prayer. The north face of the Glass offers incredibly steep climbing on granite as flawless as that found in Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows. This wall has something for everyone: C1 cracks for dialing in beginning aid techniques, single pitch C2 routes for those wanting a bit more difficulty, and of course plenty of A3 and A4 stuff for anyone feeling a bit saucy. One of the more popular climbs here is Glass Menagerie - a classic climb that can easily be split in half for those only wanting to do the aid portion, or almost as easily climbed in its entirety in a day. For a detailed description of this climb click here - Climbing Glass Menagerie V 5.11 A3+ - photos
This excellent 5.9 challenge is located at the far right end of the Sun Wall and is identified by the two bolt belay atop the first pitch below the beginning of the prominent crack. Pitch 1 - Start this climb well to the left of the pitch 2 crack on the large apron that extends below the wall. Follow the easy 5.4 ramp as it gradually evolves into 5.9 face moves below the belay bolts. It is best to climb high up onto the ramp and traverse right to the bolts as there is rotten rock in areas directly below them. The easier part of the ramp offers little protection. Small - medium cams, nuts, can be placed in eyebrows as you get closer to the bolts. Pitch 2 - Climb the short section of face (probably easiest to the left of the anchors). Jam the 5.9 crack until it flares into an off-width. The first section is steep and asks for good hand jamming to pass through it. The crack will soak up gear, particularly medium cams, large nuts, smaller hexes. Things ease off slightly before the crack starts to widen with some decent foot holds to rest on. A good sized cam may come in handy. Arm bars get you to the flaring section. Escape it by moving out left onto the face and continue up. Build an anchor in the crack below the bulges. Pitch 3 - Traverse left from your anchor about 25 feet to gain the weakest spot in the "Michelin Man" bulges above. 5.9 moves get you over the first bulge and onto a little easier ground as you work up through them. A good assortment of cams is helpful. When you arrive below the intimidating last bulge, work right a good way until you see the start of the 5.7 water groove that sneaks you through it. Step into the groove and float up on the easy ground. Eyebrows offer good gear placements. Build an anchor where convenient as high up as your rope permits. Pitch 4 - Continue up the easy 5.7 water groove. Build an anchor. You are looking to make your escape towards the trees in the gully 200+ feet to your right. Pitch 5 - Traverse the easy ground toward the trees in the descent gully. It can be done unroped. Once at the trees, look for the slings close to the gully. Rappel from slings placed around the far right tree of the growth near the top of the gully. A two rope rappel will bring you to a second set of manky slings on some bushes in the gully Another two rope rappel gets you to the ground.
The crown jewel of this cliff is Invisible Airways 5.10c A2. Merely looking at the second pitch would make even any hard-core boulderer want to yank up a set of etriers and tie in to the sharp end to have a go at this laser cut beauty.
The next pitch, the money pitch, starts off of one of the best ledges on Looking Glass; plenty of room for friends, chairs, golf clubs. Off this ledge, climb the arching crack using nuts, cam hooks and cams to .75" past 2 bolts and a few fixed heads to a bolted anchor. THIS ROUTE RELIES ON FIXED GEAR TO GO CLEAN.
Rack: 2 ea. cams .4-2", nuts(offsets useful), heads, rivet hangars, hooks, cam hooks, bat hooks.
Rowin's Route a.k.a. Remember Appomatox(5.7 A2+) is slightly more
difficult (and WAY steeper) than Invisible Airways. Start on a flake
and climb up and right to its peak. Pass a few bolts, rivets and
a bat hook move to the base of a thin flake. Move left out the underside
of the flake on offset nuts and small cams(beware the expando factor)
until a bolt is reached. Many many rivets and bolts lead to a flake, 2 more rivets, and finally a horizontal seam. If this seam does not have its signature fixed circlehead, prepare for some work. Placing a head in this seam requires the climber to top-step and hammer overhead. No fun. A tied-off baby angle could probably be used instead of a head. Belay at 3 bolts. 60 meters to ground. Rack: Cams 2-3 ea. .4-2"+3.5" piece for first pitch flake, 2 sets nuts(offsets useful), heads, circle heads, many rivet hangars, 3 KnifeBlade's, 3 Lost Arrow's, 1 baby-small angle, hooks, cam hooks, bat hooks. Submitted by: Alpine Mingo Falls is a small area near Cherokee, North Carolina. The falls are a popular tourist attraction. Climbing can be done on the cliffs adjacent to the falls. Mingo Falls > Right Cliff The right cliff is much more difficult climbing than the left. Routes for the right cliff will be published with the guidebook. Mingo Falls > Left Cliff Mingo Falls-Left Cliff Topo
The solid, straight lines represent the edges of the cliff. The waterfall is to your right, beside Dry Falls. As you can see, Middle of Nowhere, Green Acres, The Mingo Ate Your Baby, and Crossroads all share the same belay ledge. All of these except Green Acres and Middle of Nowhere share the same path to the top. An additional belay on the right side of the cliff may be required to make the long traverse in Crossroads, followed by the one shown on the left. Use your own judgment and make sure not to run out of rope. The belay station for Dry Falls and Crossroads is not shown because there is a vast amount of trees and crack-filled outcroppings from which you can choose to set up a belay. Also, setting up a belay station halfway up the cliff is completely optional, but bear in mind that ignoring the belay and climbing the cliff single-pitch style will involve you climbing the majority of the time out of your belayer’s sight, which can be slightly dangerous. Large version of Mingo Cliff Topo Mingo Falls > Left Cliff > Dry Falls 5.4 R (Variation: 5.5RX) Dry falls begins on the far right side of the cliff (closest to the waterfall), and stays on that side all the way up. It’s probably the best protected climb on the cliff due to the fact that all the way up the side of the cliff are trees, as well as boulder-like outcroppings of rock filled with cracks. You can use these trees to girth-hitch slings around and use as natural pro. The trees don’t look like they’ll hold much weight, but if you look hard enough, you’ll find enough load-bearing ones to ease your mind. There are a few cracks on the face of the cliff itself, but not many. The trees also make great belay stations, and you can set up a belay almost anywhere on the rock. On the face of the cliff itself, however, there are very few cracks that will take nuts or cams. But thanks to the trees, you have a fairly well protected climb (compared to the others). Near the top of the cliff, the last twenty feet or so, the climb turns slabby and very mossy, so be ready for it. The moss makes it tough to get a good hold, but since it’s rather slabby it’s not as bad as it could be. If you don’t want the slab, you can traverse to your left fifteen feet or so and go vertical. This adds a little to the difficulty, and a lot to the danger of the climb. I guess it could be considered a separate route, but I just noted it above and on the topo as a variation. Large version of Mingo Cliff Topo Mingo Falls > Left Cliff > The Mingo Ate Your Baby 5.5 RX Just to the left of the middle of the cliff, you will see a small protruded section of rock, featuring a few cracks that will take pro nicely. Head up this protrusion, almost like climbing an arête, and keep going straight. This route is surprisingly well protected compared to the rest of the cliff, with about six placements on the first pitch as opposed to two or three. The belay station is easily noticeable. It is far to the left side of the cliff, with a medium-sized section of rock about six feet tall running up the side of the cliff, full of cracks. There is a good-sized ledge, right under a pine tree that makes a perfect multi- directional anchor for belaying. From here you are about thirty-five feet from the top. The ledge continues upwards until the rock cuts straight up again. Here is where the danger starts. Along the bottom of the vertical section is a long horizontal crack that takes nuts or cams perfectly. Set a couple of pieces and head for the top. There are no other places to set pro, so don’t fall. The pieces you set at the bottom will keep you from going to the ground, but they won’t stop you from hitting the ledge even if you fall one foot above them. It’s not a problem until you near the top, where the moss gets heavy, the holds are filled with pine needles, and many of the handholds turn to negative slopers that are seemingly designed to let your hand slide right off. Once you summit, there’s a large pine tree (again!) that makes a bomber belay anchor to bring up your second. Thank God for trees. Large version of Mingo Cliff Topo Mingo Falls > Left Cliff > Middle of Nowhere 5.5 RX My favorite route on this cliff, it’s simple to find this climb, and to stay on route. Just head straight up the middle of the cliff. The first several feet feature small, jagged holds, and two spots to sink a nut in if you can let go with one hand long enough. You’ll need to use the same belay ledge as in The Mingo Ate Your Baby, underneath the pine tree to the left of the cliff. Once your second gets up and the leader heads out again, traverse back to the middle of the cliff and continue straight up. Be warned that the same danger in The Mingo Ate Your Baby is an issue here; a fall from the cliff will land you on the ledge, as your only pro will be what you place where the vertical section meets the ledge. Also, as with every other climb on the cliff, the moss gets bad near the top. Summit, belay from the pine tree and bring up your partner. Large version of Mingo Cliff Topo Mingo Falls > Left Cliff > Crossroad 5.5 RX Crossroad more or less combines Middle of Nowhere with Dry Falls. Start at the right, heading up Dry Falls. After twenty to thirty feet you’ll see a horizontal crack in the center of the cliff. Traverse over to the crack, try to set some pro, and then follow Middle of Nowhere to the belay, then onward to the top. You may need to set up a belay on the right side of the cliff before you attempt the traverse, then one at the pine tree belay on the left side. If you don’t, just be sure your rope is long enough or else you’ll have to double back or simul-climb. This was the first first ascent we ever did, made before we owned any cams, and at the crack after the traverse I set two nuts, only to have them both fall out after I had continued another fifteen feet. That left me virtually unprotected for the rest of the traverse. The crack takes cams nicely (especially small TCU’s), but it takes work to sink a nut in it in a way that will hold. Large version of Mingo Cliff Topo Mingo Falls > Left Cliff > Green Acres 5.4 RX This route begins just to the left of The Mingo Ate Your Baby, on the other side of the arête-like feature. There is a slight rise at the base of the cliff, which means that Green Acres starts out a couple of feet above the other climbs. Stay to the far left side of the cliff to the belay ledge. This is an easy climb, but really nasty. The route is covered in moss, dirt, and other crap. When you leave the belay, head directly above the pine tree you’re using as an anchor. There is a very slight overhang here you go up. Once over it, traverse right (or continue up if you prefer) to eventually summit in the same place as the other climbs. The climb ain’t called Green Acres for nothing, as you’ll find out while you fight all the moss. Large version of Mingo Cliff Topo Notes from Steve Longenecker, guide, about Stone Mountain: Stone, huh? One of my bestest places to climb! Yes, I CAN give you lots of beta, maybe more than you should have! All you ever hear about Stone is RUNOUT!, RUNOUT!, right? Assuming you have a guidebook (which I believe is the case), check out the routes that leave from the "Tree Ledge". At the far left is the most popular route at Stone, the famous "Great Arch". 3 pitches, new belay bolts all the way up and a continuous crack that can handle 30-50 pieces of "trad" gear, if you want to use that much! This is a wonderful place for a beginning leader to do his/her first "on-sight" lead. Gear placements are straightforward and the belays are obvious and secure. As you climb, take note of the belay stations to your right. These are the ones you need for rapping back down to climb "No Alternative". DON'T try to rap the route you just climbed... #1. Way too awkward, because of the way the rock arches out. Makes for horrendous rope drag. #2. Other folks will, no doubt, be coming UP the route and you will be in their way.
You'll note that I haven't given what should be the obvious answer to the question, "How do you climb up to the "Tree Ledge" in the first place? Whipping out the guide book again, let's look on page # 78. Note, at the bottom of the page, "20", "21" and "22". Between "20" and "21" is an obvious left-facing feature that will accept lots of pro, almost like a mirror-image of the first pitch of "The Arch", right? (Even though you've not been up there, you can imagine what I mean!) Many, many years ago (early 1970's), this was called "Mitchell's False Start". (Few people know that, so you are among the very elite!) Anyway, this thing is an obvious way up to the tree ledge. It IS a bit runout toward the top, but you must lose your Stone virginity at SOME point! "U-Slot" and "Block Route" are also fairly obvious. One of my favorites is somewhat harder than it's rated in the book, that being "Crystal Lizard". To find it, first locate the infamous "Rice Crispies", then move over left about 30-40 feet and look for a lonely bolt, about 30' up on the face. That's your target! From there, you follow some crystals (Bet that's where the name came from, huh?) that lead up at a diagonal. Eventually, just about the time you are about to wet your britches, a Camalot crack appears and your sigh of relief echoes throughout the valley! Yes,there IS another way to the tree ledge, that being the well-known and accursed "Entrance Crack". Walk way right of where you were attempting to climb and there it is, virtually "screaming" at you,"Climb Me!, Climb Me!" This IS the only logical way up to the tree ledge, so why not go ahead and climb it? Why? Because, as George Leigh Mallory once said, "Because it's there!" You've heard of "off-width" cracks, right? THIS defines the term! Go for it! Bet you won't do it again! Come back another time, when you feel more comfortable, see what "Great White Way", "Mercury's Leads", "Storm in a Teacup" and "Rainy Day Women" look like on your second visit. They might not have appeared particularly appetizing first trip here. "Yardarm" makes a little sense; "Banana Breath" doesn't. Though I've not done it, there's a new climb (to me, anyway!) called "Between the Lines", that I hear is one of the best off the tree ledge. It's a series of bolts between "Great White" and "Great Brown". I've yet to be there with the right people, but my huevos are swelling and "my time is at hand"! (Shades of James Taylor, early 1970's) Enough from me. Let's get on the rock! |
From the bolt, leap frog hand placed lost arrows back right across
the top of the flake. Belay at 3 bolts. The next pitch moves left,
then back up along blocky corners. Knifeblades are handy for this
section. Move out of the blocky section and onto the improbably
steep rivet ladder.
Be warned that this topo IS NOT TO SCALE. You’ll have to generalize
and add a little imagination to this. The dark, thick lines are
the routes. These are just a general guide. I won’t show holds or
all the features, only a general direction of the way the route
runs. The rest is yours to figure out. 
Between
"The Arch" and "No Alternative"
are several of the famous "Face" routes. You'd
probably be wise to stay away from them until you've dealt with
the second and third pitches of "No Alternative".
Once again, look off to the side ( look left, this time!) for rap
stations when you come down (or you can repeat the rap that was
on "The Arch".) Though there IS a trail down from
the top, and a very pretty one at that, its a bit difficult to find
the spot where it leaves the top ridge and heads down; I suggest
you rap to the "Tree Ledge" each time you finish
a route. 
