tra1
Q: What is traditional climbing?
The "traditional" method of climbing describes climbing
the rock using the roped techniques that developed out of mountaineering.
The lead climber secures the rope using what natural protection
is found and climbing equipment designed to wedge into fissures
in the rock. The second climber removes these attachments as
he climbs past them. The ropes and anchors do not help the climber
ascend the rock, they are used for safety.
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tra2 Q:
What equipment do I need?
A: The climbers goal is to bring just the equipment needed
for the climb. Any extra gear is weight and bulk the climber
has to carry with him. Each climber will need shoes, a harness,
a helmet, belay device, a few slings, cordalettes, and carabiners.
On longer climbs,a small backpack is used haul the gear to and
from the rock, to carry snacks, water, jacket and warm clothes,
camera, additional safety and personal gear. One or two ropes
may be required, depending on the climb.
The collection of protective anchoring gear the climber brings
along is termed the "rack". The rack will vary from
climb to climb. A minimum "standard" rack for the
southeast might include 8 - 12 nuts, 1-2 tricams, selection
of cams 0.5 - 3 inches weighted more towards the small - medium
sizes, a few larger hexes.
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tra3
Q: How does the removable anchoring gear work?
A: There are two kinds of anchors - passive and active.
Every once and a while the rock serves up ideal natural anchors
- horns that can be slung, boulders that can be looped, small
eyes and arches that can be tied off. Typically though, the
climber must place his own protection.
Passive anchors wedge into slots and crevices. They are tapered
or shaped in ways to make them jam tighter when force is applied.
The lead climber selects a crack or feature in the rock, looking
for one which constricts near the outside edge. The passive
protection is worked in behind this constriction. A wedge or
cam shape helps lock the protection in place. A carabiner is
attached to the protection, then the protection is clipped to
the rope with a sling and carabiner.
Active protection uses mechanical devices that redistribute
the forces of a fall to the rock. Camming units are the most
common type of active protection, and will work in parallel
sided cracks where there is not a constriction near the lip
to wedge behind. A sliding trigger along the stem rotates 2
- 4 spring loaded cam shaped lobes. Pulling the trigger pulls
the cams in, making the unit smaller.
The climber pulls the trigger to make the camming end of the
unit smaller, slips it into a crack, then releases the trigger.
The spring loaded cams expand to contact the rock. Any pulling
force along the stem of the camming unit forces the cams wider
and tighter against the rock.
To remove a piece of gear, the second reverses the moves the
climber used in placing the gear. With camming units, pulling
the trigger will rotate the cams in, releasing them from the
rock. A cleaning tool is sometimes needed to help tap and pry
passive gear from the rock, especially if it has held the weight
of a fall.
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tra4 Q:
How do I know what equipment to bring?
A: A good guidebook will clue you in to what you need in general
as well as any especially large or small gear. It's also helpful
to ask someone familiar with the route. It's up to the climber
to interpret this information and match the gear he has to it.
In addition to the protective gear, bring climbing shoes, harness,
rope, belay device, guidebook (link
FAQ) , a few extra slings, coradlettes, and carabiners.
If outside, you'll probably want a day pack for water, snacks,
and gear on the approach.
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tra5 Q:
What about falling?
A: The traditional lead climber needs a belayer to manage the
rope between them so there is never any slack nor is it too
tight. The belayer anchors himself to something solid. As the
climber ascends, he looks for fissures, cracks, or other features
which he can use to attach the rope to the rock. If he falls,
the rope will be held to the rock by the anchors he has placed.
If the placements are good and the rock solid, all is well.
If not, the piece pulls from the rock and the climber keeps
falling until the next piece of protection takes up the slack.
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tra6 Q: What
are the best places for traditional climbing in the Southeast?
A: There are many good paces for traditional climbing in the
Southeast. In the Cumberland Plateau region, climbs are typically
one pitch in length. The
Tennessee Wall, near Chattanooga has some excellent climbs.
Nearby Sunset
Rock also has many good trad lines. Sandrock,
Alabama has a fair number of short trad climbs. As you move
into up into the mountains, the climbs become longer multi-pitch
routes. A few good multi-pitch lines can be found as far south
as Tallulah
Gorge, Georgia, but the best will be found on the big stone
of North
Carolina. Looking
Glass Rock, Table
Rock / Linville Gorge, and the big walls of Whitesides
Mountain offer many classic lines.
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