Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

Search:

2009 North Carolina Climbing Site Closures for Peregrine Falcons

Source:
Chris Kelly
Mountain Nongame Wildlife Biologist
NC Wildlife Resources Commission
Asheville, NC
wk cell: 828-230-1320
christine.kelly@ncwildlife.org

2010 North Carolina Peregrine Falcon Climbing Site Closures

 

The closure boundaries at Whiteside Mountain, Nantahala National Forest, have changed significantly.  The resident pair of falcons has moved to the side of the cliff that is currently designated as open to climbing and rappelling.  The U.S. Forest Service is changing the closure so that the side currently designated as 'open' becomes 'closed', and the side currently 'closed' becomes 'open'.  In terms of climbing routes, everything to the right of (east of) the Mainline route will be closed (right= when viewing the cliff face from the base of Whitesides).  This means that Traditions, Original Route, Whipping Boy, and all other routes on the right side are closed this nesting season.  The Forest Service has updated signs in the kiosk and will post signs on the trail.   

Site Name

Area Closed

Landowner

Whitesides Mountain

All climbing routes between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are closed. 

USFS, Nantahala  Ranger District

(828) 524-6441

NC Wall (Linville Gorge)

All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed

USFS, Grandfather Ranger District

(828) 652-2144

Shortoff Mountain

(Linville Gorge)

All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed.

USFS, Grandfather Ranger District

(828) 652-2144

Big Lost Cove Cliffs

All climbing routes are closed. 

USFS, Grandfather Ranger District

(828) 652-2144

Looking Glass Rock

(North Face)

All routes to the right* of Glass Menagerie and to the left of and including Twisted Laurel on the North Face of Looking Glass Rock are closed.

USFS,  Pisgah Ranger District

(828) 877-3350

Whiterock Cliff and Eagle Cliff

All climbing routes are closed

USFS, Appalachian Ranger District (828) 682-6146

* As seen from the base of Looking Glass Rock

Climbing route names are taken from: Kelley, Thomas. 1995. The Climber’s Guide to North Carolina 3rd Edition.  Earthbound Sports Inc., Chapel Hill, NC 332pp. and from Lambert and Shull. 2002. Selected Climbs in North Carolina. 1st Edition. The Mountaineers Books. Seattle, WA. 326pp.

 All sites are closed from January 15 - August 15; except that in the event that falcons are not using the site or nesting terminates at an earlier date than August 15th, the site may be opened to public use, as determined by the appropriate landowners.  The specified closed (or open) routes will change if the falcons nest on a part of the cliff outside the existing closed area, or if they do not nest in an existing closed area, as determined by monitoring throughout the breeding season. 

 Eagle Cliff, Appalachian Ranger District, is closed for protection of rare plants.

 This summary of climbing-site closures represents the best available knowledge regarding closure orders issued by the U.S. Forest Service and North Carolina State Parks as compiled by the North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission.  The North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission works in collaboration with the above landowners to recommend closure areas that protect peregrine falcon nest sites and minimize restrictions on climbers.  Changes in the specific closures, and publication of the notices are the responsibility of the respective landowners.

christine.kelly@ncwildlife.org

Access Fund Closure Information

The Peregrine Fund

Top of page